The 3 R's of Corneotherapy
https://pastiche-training.com/the-three-rs-of-corneotherapy/
Corneotherapy is considered a holistic skin care practice because it aims to restore the homeostasis of the skin and strengthen the skin’s natural ability to regenerate and repair itself.
Having a clinician that is trained in Corneotherapy will ensure that your skin is treated in a way that supports your skin's natural processes. The practitioner diagnoses the root of the problem and approaches treatment using the The Three R’s: Repair, Replenish, and Regenerate.
Some approaches to skin imbalances call for short term solutions that may provide fast visible results but without considering the stability of the skin environment the problem will resurface later once trips to the treatment room stop.
The Skin Barrier
The outermost layer of the skin forms a barrier that acts as our first line of immune defense and protects the deeper layers of the skin. This layer contains the acid mantle, stratum corneum, and the multilamellar lipid structure (Bilayers).
The stratum corneum consists mostly of corneocytes, which are dead keratinocytes. Because this layer is basically dead skin cells, during the first half of the 20th century, the stratum corneum was thought to have no biological function. Scientists thought this layer functioned like wrapping plastic wrap all over your body. Completely impermeable. Nothing comes in, nothing goes out.
That is until Albert Kligman, M.D., conducted a series of experiments showing that the stratum corneum is metabolically active cellular tissue that protects the body using enzymes and signaling molecules called cytokines to direct the epidermis to shed, reduce inflammation, increase lipid production and create more cells. In reality the stratum Corneum is more like a basket weave of corneocytes that is flexible, and able to receive moisture and nourishment. Keeping moisture and nutrients locked in while keeping harmful substances out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLcA36zwOcg
Repair
Because the skin barrier is constantly exposed to environmental pathogens, pollutants, and allergens it is prone to being damaged. When the skin barrier is compromised it disrupts the homeostasis of skin causing a variety of different issues, discoloration, redness, pustules or comedones, dryness or wrinkles. Typically this happens when the keratinocyte (primary type of skin cell) does not complete the differentiation cycle (migration from the lower layer of the skin to the outermost layer the stratum corneum) or when chronic damage to the acid mantle results in chronic inflammation, reduced UVB protection, and water-holding capabilities. This is why it’s necessary to focus on repairing damage to this layer before we can treat the epidermis and dermis. We want to make sure that the barrier is in optimal condition to keep harmful substances out, otherwise treatments targeting the deeper layers of the skin will be futile.
Replenish
During this step it’s important to supply the skin with fortifying ingredients that mimic a healthy skin barrier and support the process of regeneration, so that the skin can continue to repair and heal itself as it returns to homeostasis.
The barrier layers of the stratum corneum consist mainly of ceramides, cholesterol and palmitic acid. Products that contain the ingredients ceramides, phytosterols and hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine with chemically bound palmitic and stearic acid are easily accepted by the skin and aid in regeneration of skin cells.
Essential fatty acids such as linolenic acids that contain omega-3 and omega-6 can be found in evening primrose oil, linseed oil, rosehip oil, and grape seed oil.
Wheat germ oil contains linolenic acid and palmitic acid.
Avocado oil is a powerful agent for the protection and natural regeneration of the skin due to its high content of phytosterols.
Ceramide I helps protect the barrier and retain moisture.
Cholesterols help accelerate the skin barrier's recovery and improve the appearance of skin elasticity.
To keep the integrity of treatment it is crucial to avoid certain ingredients that can disrupt the balance of the skin and impede regeneration. Among these ingredients to avoid are:
Perfumes - the number one allergen in skin care products.
Preservatives - the allergen-causing substances number two.
Mineral oil and non-volatile silicones - high concentrations can affect skin regeneration.
Emulsifiers - may cause barrier disorders
https://skinology.me.uk/corneotherapy-is-my-passion/
Regenerate
Here we target the dermis with the goal of supporting the skin in regenerating cells. As mentioned before when this process (differentiation) is disrupted it can reduce the layers of corneocytes that strengthen the barrier and inhibit desquamation (process of shedding skin cells) which will prevent skin, damaged from various skin disorders, to fall off and expose new healed skin.
The most frequently applied regeneration supporting substances are vitamins and related substances as well as their esters, which are released in the skin by enzyme reaction. Nourishing creams and serums used to regenerate should aim to maintain the work that has been done to repair and replenish the upper layers of the skin and avoid triggering the inflammation response.
Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Vitamin E , Yeast extract (B vitamins), Coenzyme Q10, hyaluronic acid, amino acids such as proline and lysine, all aid in the process of rebuilding loose connective tissue and collagen synthesis.
Stimulating microcirculation of the blood vessels in the skin through massage (i.e. use of facial roller or gua sha tool) and application of cold water or cold globes can also boost regeneration.
Conclusion
The Corneotherapy method of skin care does not yield immediate results, but it does provide lasting ones when both practitioner and client work together to ensure that the work done in the treatment room is continued at home. Keeping the idea of the The Threes R’s at the top of mind when caring for your skin at home can help you better understand why your practitioner has designed your specific skin care routine to perform on your own.